How to Apply Eyeshadow

Posted by Admin | Labels: Eyeshadow

10 tips and tricks I wish I knew 20 years ago

I'm a beauty editor and yet it took me years to figure out how to apply eyeshadow that:

1. Wasn't crooked (hello, mismatched eyes!).
2. Wasn't too dark or blotchily blended (yes, I know "blotchily" is not a word).
3. Didn't extend to the wrong, wrong, wrong upper reaches of my eyelids.

After years of seeing makeup artists in action and learning numerous eyeshadow tips and tricks, here are 10 favoriteeyeshadow tips I wish someone had told me twenty years ago:

See my list of favorite eyeshadows

Secret #1: Blending is key

Ok, well I sorta knew this, but I wasn't sure HOW TO BLEND. You use three different colors: The base, usually a very light taupe, a highlighter for the crease and a main color for the lid, but how to get them to look as if they merge into each other like the colors of a rainbow?

My secret: Start light then go darker. Brush the base color to the entire eye up to the brow bone (base is the lightest color), apply the lid color (the medium color) and THEN apply the highlighter (the darkest color). Also, don't be too heavy-handed or you'll have to start over.

Extra tip: Practice makes perfect. Play with your makeup a few days before a big event.

Secret #2: Choose shadows that make the color of your eyes pop

Gone are the days when beauty experts advised against blue shadow. Matching the color of your eye with a shadow actually brings the color out (think blue shadow on blue eyes). At the same time, contrasting colors make eyes pop too (think a deep jeweled blue shadow on deep brown eyes or gorgeous golds with blue eyes).

See Is It OK to Wear Blue Eyeshadow?.

Secret #3: Never apply deep color to your browbone -- unless you're doing a cover shoot for Vogue

You don't want the drama too much shadow brings. Apply shadow up to the browbone but don't apply shadow ON the bone unless it's a neutral color.

Secret #4: Highlighter can make or break your look

When applying dark shadow to the crease of your eye, be careful to blend only on the outside edge. Get to close to the eye and you'll cause your eyes to look teeny and beady.

Secret #5: Set shadow with a great base

Primers are super hot right now because they help set makeup that stays for hours. I've found the secret to keeping shadow in place for hours is a shadow base, or primer. Almost everyone makes them but I swear by Urban Decay's Primer Potion.

I apply Urban Decay Primer Potion at the beginning of the day and sweep my favorite Christian Dior shadow over it and the shadow stays on all day long with nary a smudge, even through hardcore workouts with my personal trainer. You cannot beat that.

See How to Keep Makeup in Place for Hours.

Secret #6: Shimmer is hot, but shows off wrinkles

Shimmer makes eyes really pop, but it also highlights heavy lids, lines and wrinkles. If you don't have wrinkled eyelids yet (I do and I don't care!), try this great look for shimmer: create a "nude" lid, but apply a bit of gold shimmer to the browbone. Gorgeous!

Secret #7: Smokey is great, but keep it to the lid

Making up a smokey eye? Keep color to the lid and just under the lower lashline. Don't extend color above the crease.

See How to Get Smokey Eyes.

Secret #8: You should splurge on a good eyeshadow

A great eyeshadow (like the beauty editor's all-time favorite, Dior 5-Colour Shadow Palette) will stay on your eyes all day long, while a cheap, $4 palette will have faded by the time you finish your mid-morning coffee. What's more, quality department counter eyeshadows typically have richer colors.

See Should you splurge or save on eyeshadow and eyeliner? my list of favorite eyeshadows.

Just don't get suckered into a full-makeover at the cosmetics counter (see How They Trick You at the Cosmetics Counter).

Secret #8: How to pair shadow with red lips

Remember the beauty rule "Thou Shalt Not Play up the Lips AND the Mouth." If you're going for dramatic red lips (never out of fashion), cover unsightly blue lines on lids with a concealer or shadow primer and then keep eyeshadow light.

Secret #9: Make eyes brighter with white

A dot of white shadow or pencil on the inside of the eye near the tear duct will make eyes look brighter. You won't believe how eye-opening this is. It works so great, I use this trick even when doing my makeup for work.

Secret #10: Go for color

I love going to Sephora and trying out different shades on my lids just for something different. Taupe and lavender look great on all eye colors. Also consider mixing shades if you bought a color that's just too bold for you. Mixing an electric blue with taupe can turn out the most perfect color.